Maqha al-Nawfara
Located in the heart of Old Damascus, this coffee shop, or ahweh, has traditionally been a place for the men of the neighbourhood to drink coffee or tea, smoke waterpipes and relax after a long day’s work at the suq. An ahweh was not a place for eating food or for family gatherings, but rather more like a men’s club. One of the most traditional features of the ahweh is the hakawati, or storyteller. Al-Nawfara is one of the few remaining cafes to feature a hakawati. The stories are epic tales of heroism such as those of Sultan Baybars, or tales of love and chivalry, such as Antar wa ‘Abla, and listeners over the centuries would have been familiar with the stories and enjoyed participating by listening and responding to the cues of the storyteller. |
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Specialties of Maqha al-Nawfara
Coffee drinking in Syria Drinking coffee and tea is a traditional pastime and part of social functions during both work and leisure. In the nearby spice market, fresh coffee, tea and all kinds of spices and natural, organic herbal mixes are available. In the Arab world, coffee has a special place in the hierarchy of drinks since it is symbolic of generosity and hospitality. The coffee beans are roasted to varying degrees from light (blonde/ashkar) to dark (brunette/asmar) but dark is usually considered more desirable. The ground coffee is then mixed with ground cardamom; a ration of two/thirds to one/third is popular but it can be custom-blended to the taste of the client. The aromatic cardamom adds a distinctive flavor, which can be further enhanced by a touch of nutmeg or musk seed. The coffee is heated over a fire until it boils to a froth. It is served dark and thick in a small cup and saucer. Often after drinking the coffee, the cup is tipped over the saucer to allow the remaining grains to trail along the sides of the cup and be 'read' to predict the drinker's future. This tradition continues in many families, particularly among the older generations. |